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Float level adjusting - simplified

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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: scootermcq » Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:26 am

Could it be Mikuni vs Hitachi carbs? In 1983 they had no way of knowing they would be using mikuni down the road
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PostAuthor: grazingazer » Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:31 am

i would recommend trusting the yamaha factory manual over clymer's on float measurements for your bike
if you're asking for help please include the year and model of the bike in your signature
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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: Scotty_357 » Tue Mar 17, 2009 1:14 am

greetings from fort Worth Tx.I have a 1985 XV1000 with after market pipes.Has 30k miles. I just got done overhauling hatich carbs on my XV1000. It was not by choice mind you, the reason for the overhaul was due pilot screw on the right side completely fallen out.- while driving down the interstate) I'd had backed it out attempting to reduce the backfireing problem some months earlier, only to find out that elimiting air induction system would only solve the backfiring. Any way...I bought carb rebuild kits and installed them. Ive done more carb and injection systems over last 20 years than I to think about.. I'am also lics. Airframe&PowerPlant Tech......But these damn things drove me nuts!!
After on going ordeal of about oh say 2 days, did I find this web sight.
Obviuosly I dont know everything about motorcycles and found a lot of info helpful. I sycro the baffle plates on the bench, by dropping both idle screw completly out. Then screwed in the center sych screw taking up all free play between at cable connection side of carb. This did the trick as far as sycroing the carbrs. I had fuel coming up through the fuel nozzle
on the right carb...I assume my foat level is to high. I reduced a lot of it by turning pilot screw in. I did check the level with the clear tube process
and it seems a little high (motor not running) Flaot level was set by level
the floats by level with air horn base. Done with the carb upside down gravity pressure only. Here's the deal... I tried going by spec's along with twin vacume gauges all that. Dont get me wrong,this stuff was design a certin way for a certin reason. I did it thier way and it seem to make things worse. Any comeback this subject would welcome. I love my Virago, I got her running half desent now.

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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: scootermcq » Tue Mar 17, 2009 6:07 am

Setting them to spec is great if everything is yamaha / hitachi. Problem is aftermarket floats needles and seats may not be the exact same size. So while 15mm may work for one guy, another may have to be 17 or 13 mm to get the fuel level right when you do the clear tube test. No matter what the measurements are, you want the fuel at the seam where the bowl meets the body.

Adjusting pilot screw will not change float levels. It only adjusts the amount of fuel coming out of the idle jet. You need to bend the tang on the floats to change the level of fuel in the bowls. If the floats are wrong, you will flood that cylinder (or starve it under exceleration). The pilot screws are about right at 2.5 turns out from soft seat and then you can tweak from there by plug reading etc.
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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: aball755 » Tue Mar 17, 2009 5:19 pm

question sounds supid but here it go's. pushing tab down meens more fule and pulling tab up meens less?

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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: scootermcq » Wed Mar 18, 2009 5:56 am

Not a stupid question... I had to look at my own picture for a second to think about the answer myself.

Remember you are working upside down...

When you push the tang down, you are lowering the floats.... less fuel

When you pull the tang up, you are raising the floats... more fuel.
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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: scootermcq » Wed Mar 18, 2009 1:06 pm

scootermcq";p="137041 wrote: When you push the tank down, you are lowering the floats.... less fuel


I mean't tang not tank.... saw the typo, but could not edit my own post.
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PostAuthor: grazingazer » Wed Mar 18, 2009 3:26 pm

if you click edit at the top right of your post you should be able to edit it...i do it all of the time
if you're asking for help please include the year and model of the bike in your signature
then turn your signature on

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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: scootermcq » Wed Mar 18, 2009 4:19 pm

Yeah GG... it's kinda wierd. In any other thread, I can edit. For some reason on this thread the only button there is the quote button. Can't figure that one out.
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PostAuthor: grazingazer » Wed Mar 18, 2009 4:42 pm

next time you errr i'll try to edit it for ya skooter
if you're asking for help please include the year and model of the bike in your signature
then turn your signature on

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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: ™GodsChild™ » Mon Jun 08, 2009 11:24 am

Vroomvroom gets the golden carb award!!! I have built many carbs and the float height and drop are always taken from the gasket surface as i have pictured here.Pic #1 shows float drop.Pic #2 shows float height.These measurements are taken at the front of the float.Back in the day carb kits included a preset, plastic or cardboard measuring device to set your float level right the first time! My measuring device here is not the most accurate.One with longer "arms" would be more suitable.You can always make one w/cardboard?"NEVER PUSH DOWN ON YOUR FLOAT WITH YOUR MEASURING DEVICE"!!!
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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: kiranotter » Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:11 am

I wanted to chime in on a little tidbit I discovered:

Measure BOTH floats!

For whatever reason while adjusting mine, one is slightly higher than the other (or lower depending on your perspective.) You gotta make sure they're both at most 19mm from the jet boss.

Mine were about 1.5mm different. So while one read 19, the other read 20.5, resulting in a low fuel level in the bowl. I readjusted so one is 19 and the other is 17.5, and now the level is right on.

I have an VX1100 with the orange floats. And of course, if they're 'twisted' like this, they should probably be replaced.. is my guess.
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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: mcrepairusaq » Fri Oct 08, 2010 12:29 am

thanks for the info. it's 1:30 am here in north florida and i was starting to go out of my mind now i can go to bed and start fresh in the morning. what a relief i'll post the results in the morning. thanks again :zzz: :burnout:

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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: bmx92280 » Tue Nov 02, 2010 10:42 pm

Im doing my first carb rebuild on an 82 xv 750. I dont understand how you adjust the floats. I mean how do you move them up or down and get them to stay. What is the actual adjustment process?
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PostAuthor: coalstoves » Wed Nov 03, 2010 12:34 am

Ya bend the float tang that pushes the needle valve, prolly one of the more primitive adjustments of carburetors,, not to mention if ya don't get them right before installing ya have to pull them off to readjust and readjust .

I used a jig to hold the carbs and some clear hardware store tube to rig the tank up and triple checked them before installing the carb set on the bike
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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: bmx92280 » Wed Nov 03, 2010 1:00 am

how do you tell if you have the proper level?
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PostAuthor: coalstoves » Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:10 am

Clear tube method outlined in the various service manuals
1987 XV700
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Re:

PostAuthor: _lauri_ » Sat May 04, 2013 7:32 am

RusVirago wrote:
Vyrus";p="130405 wrote:
grazingazer";p="127835 wrote:set to 15 mm-1.5 cm
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hahaha GG, I was good with understanding this whole post until you chimed in! j/k

15 mm from the mating surface to the top of the float, or 19mm from the top of the float to the main jet boss, all done while the carbs are off the bike and upside down on the table, or workbench or whatever you use.

Is this exactly what you are saying?? lol


LOL that is how I felt when GG chimed in but realy he made sense we just did not understand because we dont have anywhere near the experience that GG and others here have, at this point I can set these carbs perfect no problem!

Anyway to answer your question Yes its 15mm from the mating surface which is called the crack of the bowl to the top of the float if the carbs are upside down ( this also means you realy are going to the bottom of the float because they are flipped to make it more complicated :) ) and yes it is 19mm from the same point you measure to from the crack, only you put the ruler on top of the float very gently dont push, to the top of the Main Jet. Good luck!

Dont forget to bench test, bench test, and bench test! Also use the clear tube method!


I found these measures impossible. Set float top (bottom) to be 18mm from main jet boss - about 20mm to main jet top. After that it was only 9mm from top of float to mating surface. Don't know if did something wrong or have somehow different carb. Will tube test on monday after getting new bolts.

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Re: Re:

PostAuthor: _lauri_ » Mon May 06, 2013 2:50 pm

_lauri_ wrote:
RusVirago wrote:LOL that is how I felt when GG chimed in but realy he made sense we just did not understand because we dont have anywhere near the experience that GG and others here have, at this point I can set these carbs perfect no problem!

Anyway to answer your question Yes its 15mm from the mating surface which is called the crack of the bowl to the top of the float if the carbs are upside down ( this also means you realy are going to the bottom of the float because they are flipped to make it more complicated :) ) and yes it is 19mm from the same point you measure to from the crack, only you put the ruler on top of the float very gently dont push, to the top of the Main Jet. Good luck!

Dont forget to bench test, bench test, and bench test! Also use the clear tube method!


I found these measures impossible. Set float top (bottom) to be 18mm from main jet boss - about 20mm to main jet top. After that it was only 9mm from top of float to mating surface. Don't know if did something wrong or have somehow different carb. Will tube test on monday after getting new bolts.


Yeah, it worked well with those measurements. 19mm from float top to main jet boss - and 8mm from mating surface to lowest point of float top.

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Re: Float level adjusting - simplified

PostAuthor: irish virago 700 » Sun Jun 09, 2013 1:24 am

I AM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEMS WITH ALL THE ADJUSTMENTS ON MY 1985 700 CARBS. THANKS FOR ALL THE HELPFUL INFO. ONE QUESTION THOUGH. HOW DO YOU ADJUST THE TANG THAT IS ON THE TOP OF THE FLOAT THAT TOUCHES THE TOWERS FOR THE FLOAT PIN??? THAT IS YET ANOTHER ADJUSTMENT IN A LONG LIST OF VIRAGO CARB ADJUSTMENTS THAT I DON'T KNOW HOW TO FIX. PLEASE HELP:(

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